The Annapurna Circuit used to be called the best trek in the world. Then the roads came. Now every forum has the same question: has the road ruined it?
The honest answer is no, but it has changed. Parts of the old route are now dusty jeep track. But the best parts, the high route above Pisang, Manang, the 5,416 m Thorong La pass, and the descent to Muktinath, are still on foot and still spectacular. This guide shows you what changed, which sections are worth walking, and how to plan a circuit that’s still worth your time.
Quick Answer
Yes, the Annapurna Circuit is still worth doing, if you plan around the road. Skip the roughest road sections by jeep, walk the high core from Pisang to Muktinath, and give yourself proper acclimatization time in Manang. If you want a fully road-free wilderness from start to finish, look at other treks instead.
What Changed: The Road
Jeep roads now reach deep into both sides of the circuit:
- East side: The road runs from Besisahar up the Marsyangdi valley and now reaches Manang.
- West side: A road runs from Muktinath down the Kali Gandaki valley through Jomsom.
- What’s still untouched: There is no road over Thorong La, and there never will be. The section from Manang to Muktinath is walking-only.
Wikipedia notes that of the trek’s original 23 days, only a couple of short sections are now fully without a motor road. Trekking guide Prem Rai also helped create the Natural Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT), marked side trails that keep you off much of the road.
Section by Section: What to Walk and What to Skip
| Section | Road impact | Our advice |
|---|---|---|
| Besisahar to Chame (about 63 km) | Full jeep road, dusty and busy | Skip by jeep, or use NATT side trails |
| Chame to Upper Pisang | Mixed | Walk where the trail is clear |
| Upper Pisang to Manang (the high route via Ghyaru and Ngawal) | Minimal | Walk. This is a highlight. |
| Manang and side trips | None | Walk and acclimatize |
| Manang to Thorong La to Muktinath | None | The main event. Walk it all. |
| Muktinath to Kagbeni and Marpha | Road nearby | Walk when possible |
| Jomsom to Pokhara | Road, or a 25-minute flight | Fly to avoid the long road trip |
How Long Does It Take Now?
Because of the roads, itineraries vary a lot:
| Style | Typical length | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Purist circuit | 18–21 days | Walk from Besisahar to the end, with some road sections |
| Modern circuit | 12–16 days | Jeep past the worst road, walk the rest |
| Compressed core | About 10 days | Drive both lower sections, walk Manang to Muktinath |
Snowbank’s Annapurna Circuit Trek runs 21 days. Check the page for the exact route and where it uses transport.
The Big Moment: Thorong La
Thorong La is the high point at 5,416 m. It’s one of the most famous pass crossings in Nepal, and the hardest day of the trek.
- Starting point: Thorong Phedi or High Camp, usually well before dawn
- Climb: About 966 m of ascent to the pass
- Descent: About 1,616 m down to Muktinath at roughly 3,800 m
- Time: About 8 to 10 hours
Weather can close the pass, so a spare day is wise.
Altitude: Don’t Let the Road Fool You
Driving to Manang can pack days of gradual altitude gain into a few hours. That’s why acclimatization in Manang matters even more on a modern itinerary. Take the rest day, do a “climb high, sleep low” hike, and tell your guide about any symptoms.
For details, read our altitude sickness guide and talk to your doctor before you go.
Best Time to Go
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are best, with clearer skies and the most stable weather. Autumn is the busiest. Winter is very cold and can close the pass. The monsoon brings rain on the lower sections, though parts of the circuit, such as Manang and Muktinath, are drier because of the rain shadow.
Permits
You need an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), about NPR 3,000, and a TIMS card where required. A licensed guide is required in the conservation area. See our Nepal trekking permits guide.
Cost
Other operators list fully guided circuits from about $1,325 for 16 days to about $1,880 for 14 days, depending on service level and transport. Snowbank’s 21-day price is on the Annapurna Circuit Trek page.
Who Should Do the Annapurna Circuit?
It’s a great fit if you:
- Want variety, from forests to alpine desert to the Kali Gandaki gorge
- Love the idea of a big pass crossing
- Like teahouse trekking with plenty of lodges
- Have 10 to 21 days
Think twice if you:
- Want continuous road-free wilderness
- Dislike dust and vehicle traffic on any section
- Need fewer crowds. In that case, see the alternatives below.
Alternatives if the Road Bothers You
- Manaslu Circuit: Quieter, with a restricted-area permit that limits crowds. Compare the two in our Manaslu vs Annapurna Circuit guide .
- Nar Phu Valley and Kang La Pass: A remote side valley that joins the circuit at Ngawal.
- Kang La Pass and Thorang La Pass: Two high passes in one trek.
- Hidden treks in Nepal: More quiet routes across the country.
If you’re choosing between several treks, see our best treks guide.
Tips for a Better Circuit
- Jeep the dusty sections and save your energy for the high core.
- Walk the high route via Ghyaru and Ngawal if the weather allows.
- Take the Manang rest day. Don’t skip it.
- Start the Thorong La climb early and carry warm layers.
- Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara instead of driving.
- Ask your guide about NATT trails to avoid road walking.
FAQs
Is the Annapurna Circuit still worth doing?
Yes, if you plan around the road. The high core from Pisang through Manang and Thorong La to Muktinath is still on foot and still spectacular.
Has the road ruined the Annapurna Circuit?
It has changed the lower sections, especially Besisahar to Chame and Muktinath to Jomsom. The famous high sections are untouched.
Is there a road over Thorong La?
No. The section from Manang over Thorong La to Muktinath is walking-only.
How much of the circuit is now jeep road?
Besisahar to Manang is largely motorable, and Muktinath to Jomsom is a road. Many itineraries use a jeep for the lowest sections.
How many days does the Annapurna Circuit take now?
About 10 to 21 days, depending on how much you drive. A modern plan is often 12 to 16 days.
How high is Thorong La?
5,416 m. It’s the high point of the circuit.
How hard is the Thorong La crossing?
It’s a long day of about 8 to 10 hours, with about 966 m of climbing and a steep descent. It’s non-technical but demanding.
Is altitude sickness a risk?
Yes. Driving to Manang compresses altitude gain, so acclimatization in Manang is important.
When is the best time for the Annapurna Circuit?
March–May and September–November.
Do I need a guide for the Annapurna Circuit?
A licensed guide is required in national parks and conservation areas. Confirm the rule with your agency. See our permits guide.
What are the alternatives to the Annapurna Circuit?
The Manaslu Circuit, Nar Phu Valley, and Kang La Pass are quieter options.
Can I skip the road sections?
Yes. Most trekkers use a jeep for the lowest road sections, or follow the NATT side trails.
Ready to cross Thorong La? View our Annapurna Circuit Trek or browse all Snowbank Adventure treks. For official information, see the Nepal Tourism Board .